06/21/2002
I just got back from my afternoon sightseeing and am using an
Internet Shop witha high speed connection for for $0.37/hour!
(They tried to charge me $0.75 for 15 minutes this AM at the
hotel. I finally settled for $0.37.)
I learned from my guide that Zhongdian Prefecture (the county,
area where I've been the past day and 1/2), officially changed
their name to Shangri La last year. There are times when it
appears to like the mythical area.
Back to the drive from Lijiang. The first 20 miles were through
a construction zone in a deep gorge. You'd have to see it to
believe it. What was a narrow 2 lane winding road is reduced
to 1/2 - 1 lanes as meanders through rock debris, construction
materials, oncoming traffic on right and left and construction
camps here and there in the middle of the road. There are 50-100'
drop offs where the road washed away and they are building retaining
walls from that depth below. I mean half the paved road washed
out so there is a vertical drop of 10-15' to the top of the washed
out materials which then slopes at a very steep angle to where
they've started up with a new wall. Of course, vehicles hug
the hillside (while weaving in and out of eveything mentioned
above) some things crawl for miles. Like many underdeveloped
areas, the trucks in the traffic mix are grossly overloaded and
terribly underpowered so everthing gets backed up (or stopped
when he's coming from the other direction) behind a stinking,
smoking diesel hogging the 8-10' of navigable road. Besides
all of the above, the road is curving in and out so it is impossible
to pass. Most of the vehicles that try, including cars, are
also grossly underpowered. I get the impression that it is a
terrible loss of face to give way (either way!)
The open road is typical for underdeveloped areas. First there
is is the mix of pedestrians, large animals wandering in the
road, 2 cylinder farm tractors, compact cars and the few idiots
that have American sized and powered vehicles that lay on the
horn (well, everyone does that) and go like hell. Then there
are the danger areas: Road washouts, potholes, speedbumps (unintentional),
etc. Somebody (if you're lucky) will lay a small branch in the
lane indicating some hazard 5' ahead. Often, they're kind enough
to also add a few small rocks (4-12")to warn you as you drive
over them. Since similar rocks are always scattered all over
the highway (supposedly spillage from trucks and tractors), its
a challenge to decipher which are warnings, religious symbols,
offering to the road gods, animal wastes, etc. Somewhat the
same procedure for broken down vehicles. Somebody (again, if
you're lucky) will put a couple of stones, a coke bottle, etc.
under the rear bumper as a warning. Maybe the idea is to keep
you focused looking for the small things.
On the way yesterday, we stopped at Tiger Leaping Gorge. The
Yangtze funnels down to 50 yards wide and the water races through
rivaling any rapids on earth. The problem is you are at 10,000'and
you have to hike down 700' of stairs to see it. (I did.)
Today I hiked 2 miles down (500' elevation drop) to a scenic
lake. Rode the pony back for $3. This afternoon climbed 147
steps (according to the guide) to a 400 year old Tibetan temple.
Picked up a half dozen blessings from several monks including
the resident "living Budha". I should be able to walk on water
by the time I get out of Tibet.
OK, tomorrow off to Lhasa.
Aloha
Lenny
I just got back from my afternoon sightseeing and am using an
Internet Shop witha high speed connection for for $0.37/hour!
(They tried to charge me $0.75 for 15 minutes this AM at the
hotel. I finally settled for $0.37.)
I learned from my guide that Zhongdian Prefecture (the county,
area where I've been the past day and 1/2), officially changed
their name to Shangri La last year. There are times when it
appears to like the mythical area.
Back to the drive from Lijiang. The first 20 miles were through
a construction zone in a deep gorge. You'd have to see it to
believe it. What was a narrow 2 lane winding road is reduced
to 1/2 - 1 lanes as meanders through rock debris, construction
materials, oncoming traffic on right and left and construction
camps here and there in the middle of the road. There are 50-100'
drop offs where the road washed away and they are building retaining
walls from that depth below. I mean half the paved road washed
out so there is a vertical drop of 10-15' to the top of the washed
out materials which then slopes at a very steep angle to where
they've started up with a new wall. Of course, vehicles hug
the hillside (while weaving in and out of eveything mentioned
above) some things crawl for miles. Like many underdeveloped
areas, the trucks in the traffic mix are grossly overloaded and
terribly underpowered so everthing gets backed up (or stopped
when he's coming from the other direction) behind a stinking,
smoking diesel hogging the 8-10' of navigable road. Besides
all of the above, the road is curving in and out so it is impossible
to pass. Most of the vehicles that try, including cars, are
also grossly underpowered. I get the impression that it is a
terrible loss of face to give way (either way!)
The open road is typical for underdeveloped areas. First there
is is the mix of pedestrians, large animals wandering in the
road, 2 cylinder farm tractors, compact cars and the few idiots
that have American sized and powered vehicles that lay on the
horn (well, everyone does that) and go like hell. Then there
are the danger areas: Road washouts, potholes, speedbumps (unintentional),
etc. Somebody (if you're lucky) will lay a small branch in the
lane indicating some hazard 5' ahead. Often, they're kind enough
to also add a few small rocks (4-12")to warn you as you drive
over them. Since similar rocks are always scattered all over
the highway (supposedly spillage from trucks and tractors), its
a challenge to decipher which are warnings, religious symbols,
offering to the road gods, animal wastes, etc. Somewhat the
same procedure for broken down vehicles. Somebody (again, if
you're lucky) will put a couple of stones, a coke bottle, etc.
under the rear bumper as a warning. Maybe the idea is to keep
you focused looking for the small things.
On the way yesterday, we stopped at Tiger Leaping Gorge. The
Yangtze funnels down to 50 yards wide and the water races through
rivaling any rapids on earth. The problem is you are at 10,000'and
you have to hike down 700' of stairs to see it. (I did.)
Today I hiked 2 miles down (500' elevation drop) to a scenic
lake. Rode the pony back for $3. This afternoon climbed 147
steps (according to the guide) to a 400 year old Tibetan temple.
Picked up a half dozen blessings from several monks including
the resident "living Budha". I should be able to walk on water
by the time I get out of Tibet.
OK, tomorrow off to Lhasa.
Aloha
Lenny
posted by Lenny at
5:41 PM
