062902 22:07 HST

Yesterday morning at 9:30 am I cleared Chinese customs (in Tibet)
which was 100' down the road from my hotel. Kind of unnerving
as you go through 3-4 checks, guards, etc with lots of quite
animated discussions in Tibetan and Chinese between my guide
and the "authorities". Then there is a 45 minute ride (about
2 miles) down a muddy 1-1 1/2 lane road to the dividing bridge
over the river. The last 1000' is a shanty town jammed with
trucks, busses, teenage hustlers offering portage, money changing,
junk handicrafts, etc. Somehow my guide establishes contact
with the Nepalese guide who is to shepard me to Katmandu and
we walk through the congestion and mud accross the bridge into
Nepal. Similar conditions on the other side with vehicles and
people waiting to go the other way (into China).
Near the end of the chaos I get my Nepal visa ($30) after a friedly
interview with some kind of immigration official. He wants to
bum a ride into Katmandu (can I say no?) but eventually changes
his mind as we have several "tour" stops on the way and have
to leave straightaway. (Its now about 9 am with the 1 hour,
45 minute time change on crossing the border.)
We find our driver and climb a similar road back up to several
thousnd feet above the river. Again, extremely precepitous but
we have a much better vehicle (Nissan diesel SUV) and driver
than I had in Tibet. For the next 10 miles we go through numerous
washouts and landslides that are barely passable. It turns out
the road had just reopened after being closed for 3 days. (During
that period, passengers (from autos, busses and trucks used as
busses) slog up to a mile to bypass the problem. You pay porters
to carry your baggage and arrange (or have your guide arrange)
transport on the other side where many of the vehicles turn around
and head back to Katmandu. I was told that its a very capitalistic
system with lots of extortion during these times. Fortunately,
we were able to get through.)
The most unbelievable part is seeing minbusses, trucks and compact
cars going through in conditions that are barely negotiable with
4 wheel drive SUV's in compound low gear. Like many places in
the past week, there always seem to appear many people to push,
pull, etc. everything through (even the trucks and busses!).
I asked what the charges were and was told they were "probably
government workers". While there were many clearing/repairing
the road, I doubt whether they were doing the extra work without
some kind of compensation. Eventually (after about an hour) we
hit a paved road. It was smoother than anything I'd seen in the
past week and with the better vehicle, we travelled at a halfway
decent pace. The driver actually planned ahead and slowed and/or
deferred to to climbing vehicles (we were descending). Eventually
we got into lush vegetation and climate similar to Hawaii (although
like Kona weather). We had lunch at a beautiful tourist resort
hotel that was practically empty. (Their tourist business has
practically dried up because of 9/11, the Indian/Pakistan troubles
and the Mao terrorists problems in the west of the country.)
I checked into the 4 star Shangri-La Hotel in Katmandu. Oh how
wonderful to have a shower that has not only hot water, but a
nozzle that rains it down in buckets. Four newspapers in Engish,
a dozen TV channels in English, lights that work and are bright
(vs. the intermitent single candle power things I had in Tibet!).
I was in heaven.
I have to close so I can check out and head to the airport for
the long flights to Rochester.

06/28/2002 00:08 HST

I forgot to comment on the poor Tibetans in my earlier closing
transmission. They, especially those in the countryside, live
in the most god forsaken place on earth. The Cultural Revolution
(in the 80's) destroyed much of their history and culture. Temples
and monasteries, a very important part of their meager life,
were sacked, ravaged and often partially destroyed. Most of the
monks were banished to the countryside. The Chinese government
encouraged and subdized immigration from other provinces thus
displacing many of the locals.

The present Chinese government recognizes many of these mistakes
(not just here but throughout China) but it has its handsfull.
All of China has high expectations and the people are clamoring
for infrastructure and benefits. Tibet is a small blip in the
total picture. You can't bring back what was destroyed and it
is very hard, and expensive, to restore ancient works.

06/27/2002 HST
Well, I made it to Zhangmu which is on the Tibet/Nepal border.
Tomorrow I cross over to meet my Nepalese guide at will pend
the night in Katmandu. Sunday I fly to Delhi (110 degrees yesterday!)
and then on to Rochester via Frankfurt and Washington.
I didn't write yesterday as I was in a two bit town with no phones,
nonetheless Internet access.
For the past two days I've been traveling through valleys on
the backside of the Himalayas. Large, level (not the road!)
1-2 mile arid valleys with 2-3,000' barren, deeply eroded hillsides
on each side. Large aluvial fans at each wash much like the
lava flows on the big island. Every couple of miles we encounter
shepherds herding yaks, cows or sheeps, sometimes in the road.
Also small villges here and there. Every 10-15 miles the valley
tightens up and we start climbing a cliffside road along a river
gorge and the descend the same way. Several passes over 16,000',
one higher than the 16,400'Everest base camp! (We passed the
access road but it was a 6 hour, very rough road so we didn't
go in.)
The last 20 miles were quite spectacular as we crossed through
the Himalayas. We got below the tree line (10,000'?) so it was
heavily forested. We climbed several thousand feet, about half
way up a winding river gorge. Waterfalls everywhere, many world
class. The road hugged the cliff all the way.

It looks like I'm in the clear so this will be my last journal.
I'd like to thank Becky for letting me do my thing, Jim Apts,
Becky's e-mailman, Fred Lins for posting my notes and last of
all, the good Lord (and his local incarnations) for watching
over me.

Aloha

Lenny

06/25/2002 21:21 HST

I arrived safely in Shigatse (Tibet's second biggest city) about
12:30 pm. I didn'y write yesterday as I couldn't find access
in Giyatse. Today I've got the best computer and connection
in the past week.

THE ROAD FROM LHASA TO GIYATSE (Tuesday)

It was about 7 hours, 175 miles on unpaved, 1-1 1/2 lane, mountain
roads hugging the sides of 2-3,000' deep gorges. Two of the
passes were over 16,000'. According to my guide, approximately
the height of the Mt. Everest base camp which we will pass (at
a distance) on Friday).
The area is very dry and desolate although we often encounter
nomadic peoples grazing yak, sheep and cows. Generally we follow
river gorges which sometimes open into verdant meadows when we
get below 12,000'.
It always interesting when we encounter another vehicle, especially
heavily overloaded trucks (about every 10-15 minutes). Going
up, we get in his dust cloud and the driver tootles his horn.
Nothing happens so we get in tighter and blow it continuosly.
If my driver can get abreast (on a 15' wide road), we can usually
"outrace" the other vehicle and get by before the next zag in
the road. That is if we don't encounter something (anything
from people, animals, another vehicle) coming the other way.
If so, we have to start over.
We had one particularly scary experience coming down yesterday.
We encountered a truck which would be rated for 5 tons in the
US coming up. It had about a 10 ton load with a dozen "riders"
on top (about 15' off the ground). Off course niether driver
used one of the few wider areas so we end up side by side on
a 15' wide roadway. We've got a 12-18" ditch (for drainage on
our right), the truck has about a 2,000' gorge on his right.
He can't back up as he would surely lose it all on the 10 degree
grade. In fact, he was in great danger if he even started to
roll back if he took his foot off the brakes or tried to shift
gears. We can't go forward because of the ditch (or backup because
of the grade). The two drver roll down their windows and scream
at each other for 10 minutes. Finally my driver takes a chance
and manages to squeeze by in a coordinated move where one inches
forward and the other does the same in the opposite direction.
Later we encountered about 40 "locals" (nomads) muscling a taxi
into a dump truck. It had obviously gone over the edge near
a switch back and had cartwheeled several hundred feet down to
the road below. My guide's comment was that the taxis drive
too fast.

GIYANTSE TO SHIGATSE (this morning)

The Friendship Highway out of town (the same highway to Nepal
that we were on yesterday but now on relatively flat land) is
under reconstruction so we take a "shortcut" using the village
backroads. First we run along a 15' high river levee for 10 miles
or so. Think moguls! Then we get on the intervillage roads.
One might call them jeeptracks other than that they are several
inches deep in dust and everyone else is trying the same thing
to bypass the construction. Numerous twists and turns. Much
conversation between driver and guide at each intersection (?).
Fiinally we get back to the highway. Its unbelievable - the
best road I've seen in Tibet. 1-2 mile straightaways, smoothly
paved, 24' wide, even 18" shoulders! We go about 10 miles and
then encounter a wire accross the road with a couple of "administrators"
collecting a toll. A couple of more miles and then another wire
so we're back to the village roads. This goes on a half dozen
times. Several more opposing traffic confrontations on the levee
moguls. Finally, three hous later, we get half decent highway
into town.

Time for my afternnon temple/monastery tour.

Aloha

Lenny

06/23/02 21:54 HST

Last week I referred some people to the June 17th Time cover
story on the emloyment problems in China. The American edition
may have been different. Try www.timeasia.com (the address on
the Asian version cover.)

I just returned from my afternoon tour of another monastery.
All have been on hills which means 3-400 steps up, 5-10 up &
down into each building, 3-4 (sometimes more) into each chapel
or room, 10 or so rungs/steps up steep stairs/ladders and then
reverse to return. All are 5-600 years old, dark, dingy, covered
with soot from the hundreds of votive lights and incense and
full of 1000's of Budhist figures and scriptures. For detailed
information, check the links on the following websites: www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/tibet/lhasa/index.htm
and ...../shigatse/index.htm (Shigatse is the 2nd biggest city
where I'll be on 6/26. We'll be passing through several passes
over 16,400' on the way. The FAA (the Federal Aviation Authority)
requires pilots and passengers to use oxygen over 12,000'!)
The entrance to all of the visitor sites, (temples, monastaries,hotels,
plazas, shopping lanes, etc.),are filled with beggars, street
urchins, handicapped, women with babies, and vendors selling
"junk". Some are very persistent and annoying. Poverty seems
quite widespread
Caucasian visitors are few and far between. I'll see maybe several
dozen in a day. Chinese tourists are the majority with some from
S E Asia. The people are extremely religious so all the religious
sites (which is where most of the tourists of all types are guided
to because of their historical significance) are crowded with
worshippers of all classes and means.
The Chinese control and occupation is a sore subject with many.
There was tremendous damage during the Cultural Revolution and
several revolts and protests have been brutally crushed. The
Chinese government encouraged and subsidized Han (Chinese (95%
of China is Han) immigration into Tibet, especially the cities.)
The Red army and facilities are quite visible, something I didn't
see elsewhere in China. Read www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/north_east_asia/tibet/
(History, pages 3-10 of the printable version, especially the
last 3 if you're pressed for time.)

Yak butter. (A yak is a hairy cow commom in Tibet.) Its used
everywhere for everything. Every meal has yak butter tea: A
mixture of tea (I couldn't taste it so it must be at least 50/50),
and a yak milk/butter mixture. It pours easily when heated but
congeals quickly with the butter on top. Also the major oil
in the religious votive lights (thousands). The butter tea is
also mixed with powdered barley to a moist ball.

Aloha

Lenny

6/22/02 20:20 HST

Several people have asked about travel arrangements. I flew
into Kunming from Bangkok. A local English speaking (?) guide
and driver met me at the airport. They take me to the hotel,
to eat and the major tourist/historical sites. The next dat
they drove me to Tiger Leaping Gorge where I was handed off to
a lady guide from Shangri La. Same routine, same driver and
then they put me on the lane to Lhasa the next day. I was met
there by a local guide and driver who will stay with me until
I cross the border into Nepal on the 29th.

Explanation from current guide on the "rock" highway warnings:
The "offical" rocks have a dab of red paint somewhere (?). That
sure helps when you're going 60 mph.

Lhasa airport was 60 miles from city. Pleasent drive over "corrogated"
road in SUV with no shocks!

Interesting experience on boarding Southwest China 757 out of
Zhongdian. Checkin counters opened 30 minutes before scheduled
departure. The guide doesn't go into boarding hall so you're
on you're own. Plane arrives and about 100 soldirs and 50 passengers
enter the hall as they are "in transit" (continuing on from Beijing).
Most reboard and they suddenly stop with me 3rd in line (actually
3rd row as nobody cues). About 30 minutes later one of my checked
bags shows up (along witha half dozen others) so I take it and
hand carry it to Lhasa. I'm still wondering what would have happened
if I squeezed through like 20 others did during the boarding
process. 15 minutes later they start unloading some of checked
baggage. Another 15 minutes later they let us board. I can't
help but wonder where my second bag is! Luckily it showed up
in Lhasa.

Time for our afternnon tour.

Aloha

Lenny

06/21/2002

I just got back from my afternoon sightseeing and am using an
Internet Shop witha high speed connection for for $0.37/hour!
(They tried to charge me $0.75 for 15 minutes this AM at the
hotel. I finally settled for $0.37.)

I learned from my guide that Zhongdian Prefecture (the county,
area where I've been the past day and 1/2), officially changed
their name to Shangri La last year. There are times when it
appears to like the mythical area.

Back to the drive from Lijiang. The first 20 miles were through
a construction zone in a deep gorge. You'd have to see it to
believe it. What was a narrow 2 lane winding road is reduced
to 1/2 - 1 lanes as meanders through rock debris, construction
materials, oncoming traffic on right and left and construction
camps here and there in the middle of the road. There are 50-100'
drop offs where the road washed away and they are building retaining
walls from that depth below. I mean half the paved road washed
out so there is a vertical drop of 10-15' to the top of the washed
out materials which then slopes at a very steep angle to where
they've started up with a new wall. Of course, vehicles hug
the hillside (while weaving in and out of eveything mentioned
above) some things crawl for miles. Like many underdeveloped
areas, the trucks in the traffic mix are grossly overloaded and
terribly underpowered so everthing gets backed up (or stopped
when he's coming from the other direction) behind a stinking,
smoking diesel hogging the 8-10' of navigable road. Besides
all of the above, the road is curving in and out so it is impossible
to pass. Most of the vehicles that try, including cars, are
also grossly underpowered. I get the impression that it is a
terrible loss of face to give way (either way!)
The open road is typical for underdeveloped areas. First there
is is the mix of pedestrians, large animals wandering in the
road, 2 cylinder farm tractors, compact cars and the few idiots
that have American sized and powered vehicles that lay on the
horn (well, everyone does that) and go like hell. Then there
are the danger areas: Road washouts, potholes, speedbumps (unintentional),
etc. Somebody (if you're lucky) will lay a small branch in the
lane indicating some hazard 5' ahead. Often, they're kind enough
to also add a few small rocks (4-12")to warn you as you drive
over them. Since similar rocks are always scattered all over
the highway (supposedly spillage from trucks and tractors), its
a challenge to decipher which are warnings, religious symbols,
offering to the road gods, animal wastes, etc. Somewhat the
same procedure for broken down vehicles. Somebody (again, if
you're lucky) will put a couple of stones, a coke bottle, etc.
under the rear bumper as a warning. Maybe the idea is to keep
you focused looking for the small things.
On the way yesterday, we stopped at Tiger Leaping Gorge. The
Yangtze funnels down to 50 yards wide and the water races through
rivaling any rapids on earth. The problem is you are at 10,000'and
you have to hike down 700' of stairs to see it. (I did.)
Today I hiked 2 miles down (500' elevation drop) to a scenic
lake. Rode the pony back for $3. This afternoon climbed 147
steps (according to the guide) to a 400 year old Tibetan temple.
Picked up a half dozen blessings from several monks including
the resident "living Budha". I should be able to walk on water
by the time I get out of Tibet.
OK, tomorrow off to Lhasa.

Aloha

Lenny

06/18/2002
I'm at an internet cafe in Lijiang,Yunan Province, China. I
caught the "early bird" (left the hotel at 6:30am) from Kunming.
It was a bit strange as I was the only one sitting in a gate
area designed for several hundred people. Finally a group of
5 Americans(based on wearing apparel!) and they called for boarding.
We left 15 minutes early with 10 people and 5 stews on a 737
(like Aloha's) designed for 120.

Lijiang is a World Heritage site on the old southern Silk Road.
Much different than Shanghai: Quite tranquil and beautiful with
bubbling brooks winding though the town. Many ethnic minorities.
Spent most of the afternoon in the old town and an ethnic minority
village. We're up at 8-10,000 feet so some of the hikes to scenic
vistas has been a real workout.

Tomorrow we drive along some very deep gorges before overnighting
in the last Yunan city before flying to Lhasa, Tibet on Fridaaay.

Aloha

Lenny

6/9/02 2320
I arrived in Singapore 10PM last after an uneventful flight.
This morning I walked some of their Chinatown (an older section
of downtown) which is several blocks from my hotel.

I din't plan on writing but I just got caught in raging thunderstorm
after having lunch with several of my staff from the Dillingham
days in Singapore. Watched USA tie Korea 1-1 on a street TV
in one of the shops with a canopy. This was another upset for
the USA (one point, now they have 4) and it looks like they will
make the the semifinal round of 16 which starts Saturday. Walked
another couple of stores after it let up slightly and then took
shelter in Singtel's phonemart. They have high speed internet
access for $2/30 minutes so I thought I'd check my mail.

How refreshing to see everybody speaking English and obeying
the traffic laws. As you'd expect, its impeccably clean and
orderly. They've been in a mild recession as they closely follow
the US economy and a lot of their customers/suppliers have been
hard hit by the Asian financial crisis. They're moving very
aggressively in biotech research and riding China's coattails
now that they are in the WTO.

Tonight I have dinner with Billie Lee, an old business colleague.

The rain has let up so I'm going to try and make it back to the
hotel.

Aloha

Lenny

6/8/02 1650
Crossing the Streets/Traffic

After 3 weeks, I'm getting the hang of crossing the streets.
Go with the masses, the odds are with you. Stay in the middle
of the pack. If somebody gets picked off, it won't be you.
Watch 360 degrees as left turn drivers often keep cutting the
corner tighter and tighter so as to beat others turning left
and the mob of pedestrians and cyclists crossing from the other
side. Kind of a reverse S-turn: Sharp left, then use the cross
walk as a lane to the left of the on coming traffic and then
a hard left once the clear the median. (They drive on the right
here, same as America.)
Earlier I mentioned how everyone lays on the horn if traffic
slows. Actually, that is exceeded by the the constant squeal
of brakes (or the lack of linings) and noisy diesel buses.

Eating Out

Friday night we had our "Going Away Dinner" at a 28th floor revolving
restaurant overlooking the river and the city. A couple of new
Chinese dishes but nothing excessively expensive or rare. Some
of the volunteers thought it would be cool to have snake when
it was suggested by one of the YMCA hosts. It was a fair size
black snake steamed (or baked) and cut into 3-4" portions. Tasted
and looked like fish. Quite boney.
Last night, my last night in Shanghai,I went to T8, a restaurant
that Condenast (a popular American travel magazine) had chosen
last month as one of the top 50 new restaurants in the world.
I went Beth, the 30+ year old vegetarian social worker in our
group. Several vounteers had already split for Beijing and the
others thought it was "too upscale" (Not sure if this meant expensive,
decadent or Western). It was excellent: Euro-Asian cuisine,
much like we're seeing in the trendy restaurants in Hawaii (and
around the world). Beautiful decor ala Frank Loyd Wright, English
menu. The food was $60, a bottle of good Australian wine was
about $25.

Well, thats it. I leave for Singapore in about 4 hours. Wednesday
to Kuala Lumpur, Saturday to Bangkok. Then back into China (Kunming)
on Tuesday. Cross Yunan province and the into Tibet for a week.
I fly to Rochester July 1.

I may write if I get to a computer or see an Internet Cafe along
the way.

Aloha

Lenny

6/7/02 1531
Quite an emotional day yesterday. Piles of gifts "love" notes,
drawings, email address exchanges (almost every family in this
public school says they have email addresses in their family),
etc.

More Store Signs
French Woodpecker Dress, Ltd.
Amorous Feelings Hotel
Massage by a bland Person (on a Massage Shop that has blind
massagers)

Two shopping Tales

Thursday I went with one of the other volunteers to Fudan University,
one of the most prestigious Universities in Shanghai. We got
there an hour early for her appointment (she is a social worker
in the US and was interested in events in her field in China.
We asked our escort to go to the bookstore so we could buy some
merchandise with the school logo. We were directed (escorted
by our YMCA guide) to several locations in tha adjoining blocks
off campus but couldn't find anything. After a half hour, she
phoned one of the Y's Board of Directors, who has offices on
campus and is a world famous polymer chemist (he has lectured
and done research at Oxford and Princeton), for help. He took
us a half mile accross campus to a nondescript buiding. Each
room was filled with supplis, most of what I saw was for scientific
research: glass vials, testubes, various paper products, etc.
In the back of one of the rooms was a nondescript locked door.
One of the clerks let us in and viola, they had a couple of
sweatshirts, polo shirts (I bought one) and a bunch of souvineer
items. Kind of like a secret shopping area for the privileged
class. (Most of it was junk.) Wait until they learn of how much
American schools make off of marketing rights.

Yesterday I saw one of the volunteers had a CD Rom of old Shanghai.
I went to the Museum bookstore (about 10 blocks) to see if I
could get something similar in DVD. They were "ot of stock" (not
uncommon here in a centralized economy) but referred me to the
Foreign Book Store "a few blocks away". They gave me a flyer
with its location on the back. It looked like 4 blocks but it
turns out only the major streets were shown and there were 3-4
minor streets in between each major. Up down, left right like
a rat in a maze. Everyone 2 blocks or so I should somebody the
flier and get directed in a different direction. One guy sent
me one way and then chased me a block to redirect 180 degrees
opposite. I even got conflicting directions less than a block
away. I finally found it and did get a DVD on modern Shanghai.
I noticed they had the same CD Rom on ancient Shanghai that
the Museum had 40% cheaper but hesitated as while there was some
English translations on the packaging, I didn't see "English"
in the upper right corner as I recalled the other one had. Several
clerks insisted it was in English but eventually everyone agreed
it was in Chinese. Back to the Museum where I bought the English
version.

Aloha

Lenny

6/6/02 1535
More on the teachers

Entry teachers make about $150/month. Senior (20+ years) make
less than $250. Mostly women teachers in the lower grades, men
in the upper. Women can retire at 55, men at 60. I understand
(you're never sure here!) that senior teachers can get discounted
housing (apartment).
Income taxes are fairly stiff. Everyone gets a $1,200 standard
deduction. After that, rates are 15% through 45%. I believe
there is a significant underground economy so teachers and government
works, where the pay is documented, get hit the hardest.

Large sign downstairs: YMCA Hair & Beauty SALOON. And in the
YMCA no less!

Last night we had the YMCA's "English Club". About 20-30 adults
(half who are regulars) and about 50 youngsters from a nearby
private school. With the childern, how many times can you say:
"What is your name?" and get a completely unintelligible mumbled
name in Chinese? How many times can you go through the animal
kingdom in English?
A group of about 20 Singaporean University students joined.
They're here researching "enviromental issues". They had a 10
page questionaire that native English speakers would struggle
with. But then, thats the way things are done here (and in Singapore).
The questions are the answers.
It's clear there are serious enviromental problems and it can
only get worse when you're growing at a 7+% clip. Fortunately
the government is aware of it (but the horse is out of the barn).
Concern & awareness is preached from grade 1, its all over the
media, experts are everywhere.

The first International Auto Show opened in Beijing this week.
Last year, they sold 750,000 cars in China. The market is growing
at 20+% clip which means it doubles every 3 1/2 years! No wonder
the world's manufacturer's are drooling.

Last day of school today.

Aloha

Lenny

06/05/02 1400hrs

Abbreviated session today as I'm going to The University this
AM.

US upset Portugal 3-2 yesterday. While they have to play Korea
(in Korea), they stand a good chance of making the second round.

Re: shopping. I forgot to mention a sight quite common in Asia.
2-3 women walking holding hands or with their arms linked. Nothing
sexual (so I am told), just friends. Its quite shocking to Western
women when their new found friend grasps their hand!

Re: CCS Program. Good idea but it needs lots of work. Lots
of communication problems between Shanghai and New York. Most
of the volunteers are backpacker type college students who are
quite naive and immature. Several think global marketing evidence
is exploitation. Continually complaing that Shanghai isn't Chinese
enough. "Conversational English" is a misnomer. Trying carrying
on a meaningful conversation with a classroom of 50 sixth graders
for 3 weeks! I enjoy it, though.

Aloha

Lenny

Lenny: I continue to read Joseph Schumpeter's "Capitalism, Socialism, and Democracy" and inevitably compare the JS's comments to the picture that you are drawing of modern day China. JS has analyzed the economic progress from feudalism to industrialism to capitalism,, and begins to forecast the next stage as a return to socialism. JS blames the conversion to socialism on 'intellectuals' who have been given 'voice' through the benefits and protocols of capitalism. Now in going back to your description of China, my impression was that somewhere in the 40-50-60s, communism was forced on the society of feudalistic society and that this structure softened into a form of socialism that is now being challenged by a 'ground-swell' of small business capitalism. Thus, we have a sort-of reverse process from the one that JS describes,, viz. socialism is succumbing to capitalism. Therefore, could we expect a repeat of the dynamics that the US experienced in the late 1800s, early 1900s? Or is this some unique-to-China pattern? For after all, don't they already have big business (The Red Army et al.)? What is happening to calm the normally troublesome social conflict generated by the gulf between the rich and poor? Or is it like in Hong Kong where it is tolerated because everyone believes that they can become wealthy?

Aloha -- Fred

World Cup

Sad day yesterday. The whole country is moping as China lost
to Costa Rica 0-2. A win was considered their only chance to
make the next round of 16 teams as they have to play Brazil Saturday
and Turkey next week. Both are much better teams and only the
top 2 in each group advance. USA plays Portugal today.

Shopping

Shops, shops everywhere. Sidewalks chock a block with people
from 10 am to 10 pm. Most are buying something as evidenced
by their plastic shopping bags full of goodies. Every conceivable
brand/product is available somewhere.
The main streets are lined with Department Stores. Like the
rest of the world, the first (they call it the Ground) floor
is women's cosmetics. All the major brands have their counters
and "salesladies" or "makeup specialists". I was told the prices
were much cheaper in the several identified as for foreigners
(similar to Duty Free Shops) although I believe like cosmetics
everywhere, it is still greatly overpriced. Also hard to evaluate
as the "locals" are always saying something is too expensive.
For example, they will walk a half to make a bus connection
when a taxi goes door to door twice as fast for $1.25. I guess
value is based on your living standard. They have a hard time
understanding paying a premium for time and service.
There are literally miles of shops.
All the major worldwide retailers are here. Some legitimate,
some knockoffs as evidensed by misspellings and off the wall
displays. Advertising is everywhere, some of it very clever.
Interior furnishings are similar to upscale malls in America.
There is an overabudence of sales staff because of the cheap
labor.
Some of the shop names, often in large neon letters, have interesting
translations if they are in English. (Most have large Chinese
characters and English if they target the trendy or tourists.)
Yesterday I saw "Fish Beauty" cosmetics and "Photo Fishing".
The traditional Asian "Shophouse" shops (off the main thoroughfares)
group by industry or product (as does most of Asia. You'll see
1-2 blocks of shops selling every conceivable type of clothing
fastener and sewing accessory (zippers, clips, buttons, etc.)
side by side. The next block will be selling industrial electric
products. Everything from poerplant type switchgear to fuses
for the house.
Hard to evaluate the prices. Quality is often and indeterminable.
You'll see locally produced polo shirts in street side stalls
for $4 and an internationally logoed (?) shirt in a more upscale
shop selling for $60.

Later

Lenny

Tuesday June 4 !2:10 PM

Everybody is eagerly awaiting China's debut in the World Cup
(World soccer championships) at 2:30 today. Outdoor megascreens,
its on every taxi radio, every restaurant has a TV every 50'
or so, all turned to the maximum volume. Besides being their
number 1 sport, it is important for the international prestige
as they have been trying to qualify for 40 years. They are not
given much of a chance, though, to make the second round - the
odds of them winning everything is 750 - 1.

A Typical Day

I'm staying at the Shanghai YMCA. Its a 9 nine story brick building
in a convenient location. The YMCA was established here around
1900 and serves as a valuable interface with the community.
They have a number of meeting rooms, conduct a lot of "club"
type activities (English, arts, seniors, etc.), worker (re)training
as well as some physical and exercise facilities. (Like most
everything else here,the latter doesn't open until 9 am.)
The building is 30-40 years old. The hotel is a tired 3 star
operated by an outside party. Many local businessman plus a
scattering of American businessmen and tourists. Chinese buffet
breakfast on the top floor overlooking the smoggy city.
The first two weeks our 6 person volunteer group had orientation,
basic language, history or lectures on topical issues for 1-2
hours in the morning. A set Chinese "plate" lunch at 11:30.
Go to school at 12:10, 3 45 minute classes with 15 minute breaks.
Return around 4 (about a 15 minute taxi ride, $1.25). Once
a week we have "feedback" meetings (most are frustrated we weren't
given a "typical" schedule and more info on the classroom situation
(50+ students, little support from the resident teacher, difficulty
of getting participation due to culture and lack of practice
carrying on a one on one conversation). Dinner together. (Several
do not care for Chinese food and sneak out to KFC, Pizza hut
or MacDonalds.) Several evenings we've had English meeting at
the Y. A little more rewarding as most are University educated
or have a fair English level. Also they are adults and they
are smaller (10-12) groups.
One night we were treated to the Sganghai Acrobat performance,
a circus type show popular with tourists and which has made several
trips to the US. The first Saturday we spent the afternoon/evening
with a local family which I have learned was probably atypical.
All were professionals living in new, spacious highrises in
the newly developed areas. I had Childern's Day and last Friday
(teachers meeting) off.

Random Thoughts/Facts

All of China is one time zone, Beijing time. Its a large country
so you can imagine the differences between East and West. No
daylight saving time.
23 Starbucks. Fifty by next year.
Economic growth rate last year was 7.3% and they expect to pass
it this year. That means it doubles every 10 years. Watch out,
they're coming!
Crossing a street is quite an experience. Vehicles of every
shape and size come at you from all directions. Especially bicyles
which are silent and ignore the traffic code (as do pedestrians).
Mass rules (but taxis are quicker!)

Aloha

Lenny